For trolling we use all different kind of artificial baits or lures, like we do with Big-game. That is a totally different story though and since I don’t know enough about Big-Game, I will leave it. I won’t talk about live bait either, we have a separate item for that. I will tell u something based on my own experience and try and explain this to you.

Trolling is possible at any water, but each type of water has pros and cons. Lakes with steep taluses, which go up till 3 feet below the waterline are difficult, cause your bait could get stuck easily and steering the boat can drive you crazy. Trolling on this kind of water using a GPS is great, because you can lay down a good route on forehand. The sides of any talus are clearly visible so you can adjust your steering in time following the right depth of the water. An alternative for fishing in this kind of water is trolling at a depth of 3 feet with plugs and spoons until you know the inns and outs of the water. Rivers have a rough, dynamic bottom due to the current of the river, which causes any bumps or holes to move through the years. You must be careful with the cribs running trough far under water, in which your bait can get stuck in easily. The easiest way to fish on a river is going upstream on the right side and following the curves and the cribs, to fish the twirling water at the cribs. Canals are nearly perfect, because they got a smooth, equal bottom, so it is quite easy to obtain the correct depth for fishing. In autumn there are a lot of fallen leafs and also the bottom is very dirty, so it is best not to bounce your bait at the bottom. It is important though to make a lot of mileage and that you give special attention on any spot where the monotony of the canal is interrupted. Sea is a great place for trolling. Especially in the warm months you can experience fantastic days with dozens of mackerel and when it is your lucky day also catch a sea-trout, sea-bass or garfish. Easy to fish you can’t go wrong. It is best you use slim bait though. A deep-going bait is no problem at all here, because usually it is a sandy bottom and an occasional pat on the sand can make a sea-Bass bite.

Well to tie a lure at your line and pulling it at some distance behind your boat through the water is too simple. There is more to it. One of the main issues is which fish you are hunting. For Walleye you use smaller baits, preferable with a rattle and deep-going so you can bounce on the bottom, while pike needs to be seduced with big lures, a possible rattle and only a few feet below the watersurface. With one rod in a support and another in your hand you have more chance to catch fish, but also to run aground, so be careful. The handheld rod is an active way of fishing, you need to keep your bait in a fishlike motion, faster and slower, up and down. Watch out when you encounter an bump, because that’s the place where the big fish like to be. Secure the lower part of your line, suited for pike with steel, fluo carbon or titanium. You only need this on sweet water. On salty water it isn’t necessary for the North sea because we have no baracuda, but with fluo carbon you can’t go wrong. Another tip is to navigate and troll against the wind. This has nothing to do with fishing but concerns your health. It is easier to keep your speed and react faster when you feel fish without getting any exhaust gasses up your nose. It gave me a headache.

You need to figure out the best speed for a specific bait. Some can be trolled fast, others need to be trolled real slow. In general use the fast lures in the summertime and the slow lures in winter. Spoons can be great at sea, when you are trolling for mackerel or Sea Bass. Ask your specialist for there are too many different spoons. I give few brands examples though: ABU, rapala, all sizes and the Fatso for pike, bombers long A etc. I had some great catches with a lure I found in Denmark for sea-trout, a Bagley going deep also on Veerse lake and in Denmark were the tasmanian devils the catchers  You have to try and make your own choices for there is a huge variety available. I will share this with you, look at the depth of the water and tell your specialist and keep it simple. Try a totally different lure, who knows you might catch bit time. I made some baits myself of at least 7 inches and caught pike, while all other bait failed.

For trolling are two types of rods: spinrods and baitcasters. I prefer a one-piece baitcaster.  The main thing is that your rod can bend parabolic. You need that to be able to cope with the hard pads on your lure, while the boat is still going 3 mph and no stretch fishing line. When you use a support for your rod, it is all the more important  your rod is very flexible. But not too flexible otherwise you won’t be able to see the tip moving on the rhythm of your bait. That rhythm is very important in order to be able to tell if there is any dirt or twigs on your bait, fish won’t take the bait. The only line I use is Dynema, which ones? Fireline and  Power pro. At the end of the line I attach a piece of fluo carbon leader of about 5 feet. For knots see this link: http://www.onderlijnenvooropzee.nl/News/Latest/Het-knopen-van-Dyneema

I already discussed the rhythm of your bait. Another way is to pull your line in so your bait won’t go that deep and you troll closer to the boat. Release the line and your bait will stop for a moment. This might be the trick to make the fish bite. Vary the speed of the boat: For mackerel or sea-Bass is 7 mph no problem, but a walleye won’t take the bait then, for pike we troll with 3 mph, but for walleye we troll as slow as possible with a maximum speed of 3 mph.

Roofblei ( typical european fish ) is also a fast fish of prey and 7 mph going downstream on a river is no problem. Always try to follow the same route and go for the taluses and edges. Obstacles can be fun, but can also cost you a lot of lures. Trial and error are the best teachers to gain experience. Trolling is a combined action of rod-movement, handling the boat and speed, and interpretation of depth and GPS.

Happy trolling

Tonny